Updated
Information
(Updated: 8 March 2017)
Information
(Updated: 8 March 2017)
This page is a place for me to chronicle my progress at making Classic American clothespins, provide additional insights, and update you on useful new information I come across. Newest posts are at the bottom.
28 December 2013
I am currently in the process of tumble-sanding my 2nd production run of clothespins (made back in November). The grip grooves, cut with the Irwin #15230, 40-tooth saw blade (see Step #2 of the specifications) have tumble-sanded very nicely after two hours. But the spring-end groove (see Step #3), made with a 1/8" straight router bit, has a little bit of fuzz still on the edges. So I am hand-sanding the fuzz away. This is time consuming and not the desired outcome. Therefore, the next time I make a batch of clothespins, I will be cutting the spring-end groove on the table saw. I will be using the Freud LU82 general crosscut blade, with a 1/8" kerf. I have purchased the 60-tooth, 10" version of this blade for $39.97 (postage paid) from Amazon (Note: see below for an update on how this blade worked).
Important Specifications Correction
Please make the following correction in your specifications booklets. On page 6, "Step #2—Cut The Grip Grooves." the 19/32" measurement for the first grip groove is incorrect. It should be 19/64"
7 October 2014
This year's only production run of Classic American clothespins is almost done. I started with 300 square foot of ash. I think I'll have around 10,000 finished clothespins.
Making the clothespins has been tedious, just like last year, but much less tedious, thanks to a new Grizzly G1035 shaper. Router bit changes and height adjustment are so much easier to do on the shaper, as opposed to the Bosch router tables I used last year. Note: a G1705 Bit Spindle was needed to accommodate router bits on the G1035 shaper.
I also purchased a Grizzly G4173 Baby Power Feeder to use on the table saw and shaper. Wow, what an awesome tool that is! I attached it to the saw and the shaper with the Grizzly G4175 Quick Holder. Once I had the power feeder set up properly (it takes some doing to get it just right), I was able to feed flitches through at a steady rate.
The Freud L82 crosscut blade that I mentioned in the December 2013 post above did not work to my satisfaction. It did not cut a flat bottomed spring end groove. I tried using a 1/8" spiral carbide router bit in my new shaper, but it left too much fuzz on the edges of the cut.
So I did some internet research on saw blades and discovered the Forrest, 10", 40-tooth Woodworker II (#WW10401125) saw blade. It's a pricey blade but it is the only blade I know of that makes a true, flat-bottom groove, and there is no fuzz at all on the edges. Forrest truly makes a quality saw blade.
The Forrest blade I bought makes a 1/8" wide kerf, which ends up being a skosh more than 1/8" when the runout on my old saw is taken into account. I also invested in one Forrest 6" blade stiffener.
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| Here's a picture of my Grizzly shaper and power feeder set up to make the spring seat grooves. (click picture for larger view) |
20 December 2014
Important Specification Change
I am revising the clothespin specifications to make an important change in Step #3, Cutting The Spring-End Groove.
The measurement of 51/64" to 13/16" in Step #3 should be changed to 13/16." I don't think less than 13/16" is good.
This revised specification gives the spring ends (which are not all exactly the same) a better space to find "their place." The clothespin halves will therefore assemble and fit together as well as possible.
In the final analysis, making clothespins is not rocket science, but the relative position of the spring-end groove and the spring-seat groove is an important dimension when making these clothespins.
20 December 2014
Another Flitch Sled Idea
Mr. Kimball,
I wanted to send you a few images of the sled I made. It is pieced together out of ash, elm and walnut. The design is the same as your sled, but I used different clamps. I purchased the toggle clamps from amazon (LINK). They hold the pieces snugly and I am able to change out the flitches quickly. —Casey Schillinger
Traditional vs Lilja Spring Assembly
Today I posted an essay to this web site about how to assemble clothespins without an excessive sidebite. This essay also introduces a whole new way to use the Classic American clothespins springs to assemble your clothespins. Click Here for all the details, and Thank you, Pete Lilja!
23 December 2014
Marketing Your Clothespins
I have expanded this site yet again with an essay about how to get selling your handcrafted clothespins. Click Here to start reading.
26 December 2014
New Web Site For Artisan
Clothespin Makers
Today I have launched a new web site to help promote artisan clothespin entrepreneurs. The web site is at www.GoodClothespins.com.
I have also purchased the following domain names, which all lead to GoodClothespins.com...
www.QualityClothespins.com
www.BestClothespins.com
www.TraditionalClothespins.com
www.AmericanClothespins.com
8 January 2015
Cutting 3 Grip Grooves with 1 Pass
After making my first 10,000 clothespins in 2013, I determined that, come 2014, I would have some sort of set-up for cutting three grip grooves with a single pass over the table saw. The problem being, my Craftsman table saw does not have a blade arbor long enough to accommodate three saw blades with spacers.
So I decided to make my own table saw, using a threaded shaft, pillow block bearings, belt and pulleys. It did not work to my satisfaction. Then Pete Lilja sent me this picture...
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| (click for larger view) |
That right there is Pete’s triple-grip-groove-cutter. One pass = 3 grip grooves. Nice.
The three saw blades are not on a table saw arbor. They are on a Shopsmith molder/dado arbor. I’m not real familiar with the Shopsmith so I took some time to peruse the web site and watch a couple YouTube videos. It didn’t take me too long to grasp the concept of how the molder works.
I decided that I should get myself a Shopsmith for next year’s production run(s). You can find used Shopsmiths on Craig’s List for reasonable prices.
17 February 2015
A Simple Clothespin Tumbler
& Hassle-Free Thin Strips
& Hassle-Free Thin Strips
Thanks again to Pete Lilja for sending the following two ideas. The first, a Woodsmith video tip, offers a very good tablesaw jig that can be used for ripping clothespin halves out of the flitches (Step #10 in the specifications). Here is the link: Hassle-Free Thin Strips
Pete also sent a link to a simple, inexpensive, homemade parts tumbler that was made for less than $20. But, unfortunately, the movie is no longer there. This Video Link, This Video Link, and This Video Link provide some food for thought when it comes to making a simple tumbler out of a plastic pail. If you put a Gamma Lid
on the pail, it would make loading and unloading the contents a lot easier.
Pete also sent a link to a simple, inexpensive, homemade parts tumbler that was made for less than $20. But, unfortunately, the movie is no longer there. This Video Link, This Video Link, and This Video Link provide some food for thought when it comes to making a simple tumbler out of a plastic pail. If you put a Gamma Lid
on the pail, it would make loading and unloading the contents a lot easier.
Sandra Christopher's
YouTube Videos
Alternative
Self-Adjusting C-Clamp
The Hanson 06201 7" self-adjusting locking clamps I use to hold flitches to my flitch sled are no longer available. I feel fortunate to have 4 of them. They are handy clamps and the self-adjusting feature is wonderful.
Kreg has some similar clamps (Automaxx), and Armor Tool has their version. But a new self-adjusting clamp from LockJaw (pictured above) looks most appealing . The LockJaw tool is more affordable, and it appears to have a release lever, which I don't think the other clamps have. Pleas note: I have no personal experience with any of these tools.
Do you have any insight/advice on shipping clothespins? I am trying to figure this aspect out and would appreciate info on how you have handled it. I am curious about the following:
ReplyDeleteWhat carrier do you use?
What packaging - Envelope or Box?
What method - priority, standard...?
Is there a discount for a business account?
Thank you.
Casey,
ReplyDeleteI ship all my clothespin orders by the US postal service. If the weight is less than 13 ounces, I ship by First Class, in a padded envelope. Over 13 ounces and I ship using a flat-rate priority envelope or box.
Years ago I took packages to the post office to mail them. Not any more. I can weigh the envelope myself and get online postage, then schedule a pickup online. The mail man stops here every day to pick up mail. I rarely go to the post office. Tracking is free and online shipping saves you money.
USPS also has regional rate boxes for people who ship online. You can save a LOT of money with a flat-rate priority mail regional rate box, to addresses in your geographical region. The boxes are not at the post office. You can order them online from USPS. In fact, you can order all the USPS flat rate packaging online and it doesn't cost you anything.
Hope that helps.
Mr. Kimball,
DeleteThank you for the info as it is very helpful.
Have you considered writing about your experiences in setting up your business with details like the above among other facets of running your own home based business? I could see it being a very valuable resource for me and one I would be happy to purchase.
Casey
On page 6 of your book it shows making the first grip groove 19/32" from the end. In measuring one of your pins halves I get one half that distance.
ReplyDeleteShould the measurement actually be 19/64"?
Hi Pete,
ReplyDeleteYes, the measurement should be 19/64". That is a mistake in the book (the only one I know of). I've been sending the booklets out with the measurement corrected. You must have a copy from before I realized the mistake. My apologies. Thank you.
Additional Information About the Flitch Sled:
ReplyDeleteThe drawing on page 13 of the booklet does not indicate how deep the notches are. They are 1-3/8" deep. I'll add this information to the next printing.
Packaging -
ReplyDeleteHerrick,
I see you're using zip-lock style clear bags for the clothespin kits. How are you packaging you finished clothespins for the customer?
What size bags and from where are you buying the bags?
Pete,
ReplyDeleteI'm packaging the clothespins I sell as shown on my web site. The bags for clothespin kits come from ULINE.
The sample clothespin and springs go in bag #S-1897 (2" x 5", 2-mil)
The bags for 19 clothespin halves are S-17732 (4" x 9", 2 mil)
For the outside bags that hold all the kit contents I use S-3073 (5" x 16", 2 mil) But I only use 13" of the bag length. I happen to have and use the longer bags to package another product.
Mr. Kimball,
ReplyDeleteHave you had any feedback on the Classic Clothespin Wax getting on clothes? When I was discussing this finish with my mom, who has tested some of the pins unfinished, she wondered if it would damage the clothes.
Thank you.
Casey
Casey,
ReplyDeleteI don't wax the clothespins I sell. I did wax the first ones I made and my wife uses. After the solvent dries, there is no residue that can transfer to the clothes. I'm pretty sure the old American clothespin manufacturers waxed their pins. If you watch the YouTube film clip of the Chez clothespin company, they add wax (paraffin, I think) blocks to the big tumbler.
Those homemade tumbler links are very good. It seems there are a lot of ideas for making a 5 gallon bucket tumbler with a motor, wood frame and some inline skate wheels.
ReplyDeleteOne thing I'd like to add: I was working in my garage last Fall making some parts for a tumbler of my own. My neighbor heard me and stopped by asking what I was doing. I explained and he said he had a tumbler I could have. I immediately said "Yeah!"
The tumbler he brought over is powered by a typical 1725 RPM motor that turns a transmission which then turns a 5 gallon bucket. This thing is a beast and reduces the bucket RPM to 20 (it has enough torque to mix concrete!). That seems awfully slow but I screwed a single wooden paddle about 5" wide running lengthwise in the bucket which, when the bucket is laid nearly horizontally, tumbles clothespin halves nicely. I've tumbled 'pin halves for three hours and 6 hours and I feel the three hour tumble at 20 RPM with the 'pins simply falling onto each other is enough.
I mention this because the videos all show the homemade tumblers turning much faster than may be necessary so don't get too hung up on RPM. It's the action of the pins falling and rubbing that smooths them. The tumblers shown in the videos use a medium to polish the brass. Clothespin makers use clothespins as the medium to smooth the wood. I think there's a difference between brass polishing and wooden piece tumbling / sanding.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThose are some wonderful videos. The quad router set-up is a great solution for reducing flitch handling. Well done.
ReplyDeleteI don't have any unassembled springs to check for myself - can you tell if a spring needs tweaking before two halves are assembled?